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Gitting Myself a Garfish
"It lies sometimes asleep or motionless on the surface of the water and
may be mistaken for a log or snag. It is impossible to take it in any other way
than with the seine or a very strong hook; the prongs of the gig cannot pierce
the scales, which are as hard as flint
They strike fire with steel and are
ball-proof!" "Fishermen from the area of Lake Charles, Louisiana [say] that alligator
gars and American alligators sometimes fight, with the alligators usually the
victors over their namesakes." "It has a bad reputation, and there is a difference of opinion concerning
its value."
I'd always wanted to git me a garfish. I'd seen pictures in books of guys down
in Florida with Hawaiian shirts on, posing with gaffs next to ferocious silver
garfish longer than themselves, that they'd caught off chickens hooked to piano
strings. I even found a dead one as a kid in Minnesota, all limp and pale and
beached on a logjam off a Mississippi tributarywhen they're usually found
no further north than St. Louis.
Decades later, I moved to Louisiana, the garfish capital of the world, where
people still fish and bowhunt gar, and eat themthat is, if they don't despise
them for belonging to that scavenger class of ichthyological undesirables known
as trashfish (the enemies of gamefish).
One reason I wanted to git myself a garfish was to take another look at le
poisson armé (the armored fish), as the French explorers called it
in the 1700s. I wanted to check out its prehistoric alligator head, its razor-sharp
canines, and its serpentine body dating back to the Tertiary days of the Miocene,
making it (along with the bowfin, sturgeon, paddlefish and coelacanth) one of
the oldest fish on the planet. But the main reason I wanted to git myself a garfish
was to be like those guys with the Hawaiian shirts.
So I asked a guy in Lafayettewho was repairing my tirewhere I could
git myself a "Cajun baracuda" (as they're sometimes called in Acadiana), and he
told me to go out to Henderson, find Old Henderson Road, and drive it to where
it dead ends at a rotting old bridge. The gar swam so thick there, he told me,
that I could pick out the biggest one and drop some bait in front of it. He also
advised me to take a jack handle along for calming them down once I got them to
shore.
It didn't take long to find the bridge. I went out on it, looked down, and
sure enough, there was a skinny snaky garfish swimming on the surface, snapping
sideways at bugs because of its peripheral vision. It was the first live gar I'd
ever seen, and it was hungry. So I dropped my worm in front of it, steel leader
and everything. The gar bit, I fought it, it got away. And though I went back
to that spot at least twenty times, I never saw a garfish there again.
But I did get familiar with the Atchafalaya Basin, driving around on the levees,
going to bars with six-foot gars mounted on walls (like the 200-pounder at McGee's),
and fishing in the cypress swamps, on land and in canoe. I heard plenty of stories
from retired old guys who fed catfish from their docks at night and hated gar
for raiding their chum. I also talked to fishermen who told me not to use a hookbut
rather, to use thread instead, or a piece of nylon wrapped around the bait, so
the gar would entangle their teeth.
But all I ever caught were catfish.
*** The size of gar has been greatly exaggerated. For some reason, the mythical
figure of twenty feet has attached itself to the alligator gar, the largest creature
of its species. In the Angler's Guide to the Fresh Water Sport Fishes of America
(1962), for example, Edward C. Migdalski writes, "Many huge sizes have been recorded
by word of mouth; even statements of '20 feet long' or '400 pounds in weight'
have been published in past years by reputable scientists." Similarly, Fishes
and Fishing in Louisiana, published by the Louisiana Department of Conservation
in 1933, notes that the "Mississippi Alligator Gar" attains "a length of as much
as twenty feet." J.R. Norman, in A History of Fishes (1948), then repeats
this misinformation, noting that "the Alligator Gar Pike" can reach "a length
of twenty feet or more."
Fossil records indicate that milleniums ago garfish used to get close to fifteen
feet long. According to Migdalski, though, such behemoths existed on this continent
within the last few centuries: "Twelve and 14-foot monsters may have lived many
years ago in areas such as lower Arkansas, Mississippi, and Louisiana where little
or no fishing took place. Undoubtedly, many huge gars were captured and not recorded
or shot and allowed to sink; but it didn't take long before the real big fellows
disappeared from the scene."
The truth is that gar are physically capable of reaching lengths of ten feet
if allowed to grow for over sixty years. Reports of such gar, however, come from
unverified sightings and legend. An 1818 description of garfish (written by Rafinesque,
who the short-nosed gar was named for) claims that its "length is from 4 to 10
feet." This figure agrees with the brunt of scientific data, as in "Species Summary
for Atractosteus spatula," published on a biology-based museum website,
which indicates that the maximum size for gar is "304.8 cm." Still, modern gar
hardly ever exceed seven feet, but eight-foot garfish have been verified in Louisiana,
Texas, and Oklahoma, during the last century.
Still, there seems to be a dispute about the length of the world record garfish.
According to Migdalski's figures from the 60s, it was nine-foot-nine, but according
to the Earthwave Society's 2001 Garsite, it was seven and a half feet long. This
same lunker gar is referred to in "Division of Fisheries Facts about Fish in the
Southwest," an article posted on a website of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service,
where it's reported that the "largest known individual was 10 feet long."
The only thing consistent about what we know of this specific gar is its weight;
according to most of our sources, it was 302 pounds. Nevertheless, there have
been reports of heavier gar. According to John James Audubon, a gar "was caught
which weighed 400 pounds." Other sources echo this figure, but the facts remain
a bit fishy, with hearsay and rumor carrying more weight than official statistics.
*** The best indications of garfish monstrosity are photographs. Like the one in
Killers of the Seas, by Edward R. Ricciuti, showing a bunch of Depression
Era men in overalls and hats, smoking cigs on a cobblestoned Little Rock, Arkansas
street. Beneath the glow of an old time street light, a seven-foot gar is strapped
to the bumper of a rickety truck. This fish appears to be at least 250 pounds.
Or in the magazine In-Fisherman, in a recent article entitled "Save
the Alligator Gar," there's a photo from the 30s of a safari-hatted Dr. Drennen
cranking back on his rod, while his buddy pulls back on a bow, arrowhead poised
and ready for release, pointing straight toward the head of a surface-bursting
gar. The head of this fish is twice the size of the doctor's.
Next to that picture, an "8-foot 2-inch 210-pound gator gar caught in Red Lake,
Hempstead County, Arkansas, 1921" hangs from a tree behind two grim men dressed
in black, with expressions on their faces like the fish deserved it. This lynched
gar, with an actual noose around its neck, is gagging at the sky, its mouth gaping
open.
Then there's a picture of Barbara Roy and her "unofficial state record garfish"
(caught on 20-pound test) hanging beside her. She "caught [this] monster Garfish
on her new Zebco 888 rod & reel," according to Cajun Charlie, who sent the picture
to Louisiana Fishing Magazine. This gar is two heads higher than Barbara
Roy, and she's no midget.
My favorite picture, however, will always be the one in Fish and Fishing
by Maynard Reece from 1963. This gar weighs well over 200 pounds, and is as fat
around as a trashcan. It lies in the sand while the fishermen raise its primitive
head, showing off its nostrils and fangs. These are the Hawaiian-shirted guys
who first made me ask, "What the hell kind of fish is that?"
*** Trying to git myself a gar, I saw a lot, but haven't caught squat. On a bayou
by Breaux Bridge, a four-foot gar was hooked on a line someone had strung from
an overhanging branch. It was flopping all around, just twenty yards away on the
opposite bank. I could've swam across, and risked being caught by whoever set
that line (an unforgivable offense in Cajun country), but I didn't feel like braving
the water-moccasined current. So I just sat there and watched it splash.
Another time, I was out on Alligator Bayou east of Baton Rouge, drinking beer
with my friend Kris Hansen. The water was low and the gar were rolling in the
weeds, as they do throughout the summer. Kris had a ridiculous oversized lure.
It was red and white and looked like a beer can, and every time he cast it out,
a gar would hit it. He couldn't set the hook, though, because their beaks were
too bony for the barbs to catch flesh.
After that, below Plaquemine, one followed my girlfriend's bobber in. We could
see it on the surface, its long skinny body tinted gold by the copper water. If
I would've had a gun at the time, I would've had myself a garfish.
And over by Lake Fardoche, I once saw one leap completely from the water, twist
in the sky, then slap down on its side. That gar was longer than most men.
On the levee below Henderson, though, on rutted roads going off into the brush,
that's where I'd find the best dead gar, their bellies slit open, meat scraped
out, heads cooked clean by the sun. These were the spoils of professional garfishermen,
who dumped dead gar by the truckload. The garpiles were usually three to five
feet deep.
On one of these roads, I discovered some decapitated garheads set off to the
side. The first one was the hugest I had ever seen, taken off a gar at least six
feet. The second one was even bigger. But the third one was the biggest bastard
of them all! At first I thought it was an alligator skull.
I took it home and threw it up on the roof so the sun would dry it out. Meanwhile,
I compared the size of this head to the one at Prejean's, a restaurant in Lafayette.
Their trophy gar was six-foot-something, and 200-something pounds. My garhead
was almost twice the size of theirs, making it a gar of unspeakably proportions.
I eventually wrapped that garhead up, drove it out to New Mexico, and gave
it to my father for Christmas. He thought it was pretty cool too, so put it on
a stump outside the kitchen window. It didn't take long for the coyotes to find
it and run off into the foothills with it. Now, somewhere up in the arroyos of
the Sangre de Cristosthe land of delicate troutthere's a an incredible
garhead bleached by the sun, its wolf-like fangs grinning at the sky.
*** Gitting a garfish hasn't been easy. I've been down in the swamps for four
years now, and have pretty much given into the idea that it takes someone raised
on dirty rice and jambalaya to hook a garfish. There are flaws to this argument,
of course, since people from all over come to these parts and catch garfish on
purpose as well as by accident. Like Japanese tourists going for redfish in the
Gulf and hooking pesky gar (because gar can live in saltwater too, like the two
mammoth gar swimming with the sharks at the New Orleans Aquarium).
My point is this: Midwestern fishermen can't catch gar. For one thing, it's
a different kind of fishing than sitting on the shore at sunset with a bobber.
Garfishing involves trot lines, traps, and special equipment (when they're not
caught on crankbaits meant for bass).
It also involves a tolerance to the heat which Sven and Ollie will never develop,
but which Boudreaux and Thibodeaux are used to. Gar are most active in the heat
of the day, and in the two hottest months of the summer. At times like these,
Northerners need air conditioning. Southerners, however, have developed a genetic
disposition which makes operating in the heat conducive to catching garfish. When
people from the North go out for gar on a 115-degree afternoon in August in the
deep Deep South, they get dizzy from the blazing rays, and after a couple hours,
turn into jerky from dehydration. Southerners, however, can wear long pants and
a couple shirts, not even feeling the heat.
This theory, of course, is not grounded in scientific research; it is founded
on fishing frustration, the vast general statement, and the convenience of making
stereotypes. I am convinced that the only people who really know gar are those
who catch them on a regular basis. And the rest of the world doesn't know jack.
*** The fishbooks seem to agree on our lack of information, noting that for the
amount of time this fish has been around, we should have way more information
than we doespecially considering their vast demographics. Garfish used to
cover an area from Canada down to South America, and only a century ago, they
covered half the continent. So it boggles the mind that they weren't observed
more, and studied more, as well as dissected in basic high school science. But
garfish, as a species, have always been valued less than the common lab rat.
To the unappreciative eyethat doesn't wonder at the ganoid structure
of their diamond-shaped armor, their fossilific jaws and needle-sharp incisorsthe
garfish is not a beautiful creature. I once served some gar-steaks to the poet/commentator
Andrei Codrescu, but he refused to eat them, using the excuse "That fish is just
too ugly, man."
This reinforced what I saw as the popular attitude toward garfish, which has
made for its stigma in the animal kingdom. Basically, nobody loves a garfish.
Therefore, nobody careswhich has affected our knowledge of the species.
As Craig Springer notes in his article "Gearing Up for Alligator Gar," "It's
just ironic
Here we have the second largest freshwater fish in the US, and
yet we know so little about it
The body of knowledge on alligator gar is
indeed very limited. Life history studies are lacking. To date, studies on alligator
gar have been confined to diet, with some cursory inquiries on the fish's distribution
in a few of the states."
Similarly, Migdalski's Angler's Guide argues that our lack of knowledge
regarding gar is reflected in their ambiguous taxonomy: "Authors of technical
works on fresh water fishes state, 'there are fewer than ten species' or 'the
gar family contains about ten species.' This indecisiveness about a basic fact
indicates how little we know about this family."
Within the last three decades, though, biologists and conservationists, along
with government agencies, have been making efforts to study garfish. The reason
they've been doing this is because gar have pretty much ceased to exist above
the Bible Belt, when half a century earlier they used to range as far north as
the Great Lakes. Garfish have also disappeared from the West, where water is less
plentiful now.
The majority of garfish authorities are united in their befuddlement over the
great decline in gar populations, frequently citing "overfishing" as the most
likely reason for their diminishing numbers, while bemoaning the fact that there's
no support for such a hypothesis. "Sportfishing" has also been suggested, since
interest in this has increased over the last couple decades (mostly due to the
fact that gar are becoming more and more of a rarity, and therefore, a novelty),
but there doesn't seem to be a convincing consensus that garfishing contributes
to extinction.
A more convincing argument is that of mass extermination, which was encouraged
by anti-garfish propaganda from the 30s. For example, government publications
like Fishes and Fishing in Louisiana manifested the gar's reputation as
a no-good "roughfish" by publishing statements such as this: "The Gars, so familiar
an element in our Louisiana fish fauna, are of unusual interest for many reasons.
Numbered among our most objectionable fishes, they are a pest to the commercial
fisherman and to the angler alike, for their voracity is responsible for the destruction
of great numbers of useful and valuable fishes." Or, as In-Fisherman points out,
"Historical records verify a persistent campaign to eradicate alligator gar. As
early as 1933, writers called for their destruction
they are a menace to
modern animal life and will wreak vast destruction unless they themselves are
destroyed by game lovers and sportsmen alike." A History of Fishes repeats
this sentiment, noting that "The Alligator Gar Pike
is very destructive to
food fishes, and causes a great deal of damage to the nets of fishermen, who kill
it without mercy. It is not even good eating itself, the flesh being rank and
tough, and unfit even for dogs."
This overall attitude towards garfish, along with other unstudied accusations
and rumors of plague (like the "parasitic mussel scare," in which gar were falsely
demonized as carriers), eventually led to their classification as trashfish
in close to half the states in America by the middle of the twentieth century.
Up until the 1990s, most states had no set limit on the taking of garfish. Individual
states either made it illegal to return live gar to the water or they called for
fishermen to destroy them immediately after capture.
A quarter century of research, however, has revealed that garfish pose little
threat to gamefish populations (i.e., bass, pike, walleye, trout, sunfish, and
catfish). For instance, it used to be believed that garfish destroy the nesting
grounds of other species to propagate their own. This misinformation has now been
refuted due to studies that explain how gar spawn in warm, shallow backwaters
which higher-status fish try to avoid.
Also, as a 1971 study (entitled Food Study of the Bowfin and Gars in Eastern
Texas, published by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department) discovered, the
diet of garfish consists mainly of forage fish, which are defined as shad, bowfin,
bullheads, shiners, buffalo, suckers, chubs, carp, "gou" (aka, freshwater drum),
gar (yep, they eat their own kind), and other types of trashfish that are generally
considered abundant and disposable. This study was conducted at various points
from 1963 to 1966, and relied on data extracted from the bellies of bowfin and
gar, which share the same diet. Here are some findings collected from February
1, 1964 to January 31, 1965:
Out of 240 specimens collected, 165 had food in their stomachs. No bugs were
discovered, but 23 crustaceans (mostly crawfish) were, along with 302 forage fish.
There were 63 unidentified remains, 0 amphibians, 3 instances of detritus (vegetation,
sticks, small grains and artificial lures), 4 instances of "unidentified" (meaning
completely unknown food items, due to high degrees of digestion), and 13 gamefish.
This means that only 5% of all gar examined had ingested gamefish. No doubt,
most of these were sunfish, which are even more common in the diet of gamefish.
Such statistics were found to be consistent with other studies conducted throughout
the South in the 70s and 80s, which made it official that the amount of gamefish
being devoured by gar was minimal. Hence, the foundation for the argument that
garfish destroy gamefish populations was proven to be false. And not only that,
but because such studies revealed that gar eradicate "pests" like themselves,
it was concluded that garfish play a vital role in controlling roughfish populations.
As individual states like Arkansas looked at their endangered species lists
in light of this new information, they began to pass laws protecting garfish.
Throughout the 90s, southern states began to incorporate new limits (sometimes
as low as two gar per day), while repealing laws mandating their destruction.
Oklahoma began tagging gar in order to track them and understand their habits,
while using hatcheries to bring their numbers up. The Tennessee Wildlife Resources
Agency even enacted legislation against "garfish harvesting," in the interest
of developing "constructive management plans that do not regard alligator gar
as nuisances to be destroyed, but as beneficial predators that contribute positively
to ecosystem stability, the balance among predators and prey, and
exciting
angling."
Nevertheless, experts agree that something beyond overfishing, sportfishing,
and encouraging eradication has been a factor in diminishing garfish populations;
but they don't know what it is. When garfish researchers come to me, however,
I will tell them the obvious three-part answer:
1) Dams: Like salmon, like squawfish, like half the freshwater fish on the
planet, garfish can't swim as far upstream as they used to. And since dams control
flooding, and since there is now less flooding than there used to be, and since
garfish migrate upstream to spawn in flooded areas, there are now fewer places
for gar to spawn.
2) Delicate Reproduction: Since garfish spawning is pretty much relegated to
the marshes and swamps of the South now (thanks to the above), areas are required
where water levels do not fluctuate, so that gar eggs can remain under water for
three to nine days in order to hatch. The jettisoning of eggs is a sensitive process,
depending on specific plantlife for the fry to attach to after they are born.
The fry then need nine undisturbed days to live off their egg sacks before they
can leave the spawning grounds. Increased farming and development have been hampering
this process.
3) Insecticides, Fertilizers, and Other Poisons: As studies on ospreys in New
England have proven, DDT, which contains DDE, gets into animal fat and is reproduced
for generations, softening the outer layers of eggs, causing sterility and lowering
the immune system of various species, particularly those at the top of the foodchain.
There has been a nationwide ban on DDT for decades now, thanks to conservationist
consternation concerning the osprey. Since these bans, infected animal populations
have been making a comeback across the country. Tests on gar roe would no doubt
yield traces of DDT and other poisons, but alas, the lowly garfish is hardly as
noble as the esteemed and venerated osprey.
*** Still, it's frustrating not to git a garfish. Something there is in me that's
just gotta git one. My bruised fishing ego is at stake. That's why I found myself taking my friend Kevin to the levee again. The day
before, we were out there catching minnows to feed my pet catfish when we stumbled
across a gar spawning spot. The water was high, and they were rolling in the grass
in the afternoon heat. I had to git me one! So I waded out with my minnow net and began stalking garfish. They let me get
pretty close and I could see them pretty clearly: they were a couple feet long
with oblong black spots, swimming in pairs. Must've been fifty or sixty of them.
I'd get as close as I could, but then they'd shoot off. I'd plunge in my net,
and miss every time. Until I snuck up on a stump, where I could see a couple on
the other side, rolling in the weeds. The smart one saw me and shot off, but the
dumb one stayed behind. That garfish was a sitting duck. I positioned the net right above its head. I went for it. SPLASH! The garfish
shot straight into the mesh. I pulled the net up on the stump and the gar came
with it, splashing like crazy. I had it. It was mine. Finally, a garfish! But then it flopped out of the net and started slapping around on the stump.
I dove for it, slipped, and fell into the bayou just as the garfish flopped back
in itself, leaving me covered with muck. So that's why we were heading back. This time, though, I was armed with a brand
new net from Walmart which I had reinforced and extended with a mop handle. "Lepisosteus spatula," I told Kevin as I drove, "is known by many other
names: gar pike, gator gar, diamond-fish, devil-fish, jackfish, garjack, bony
pike, billy gar, etcetera." Kevin didn't seem to be too impressed with my bevy of gar-knowledge. He lit
up a cig while I continued expounding: "Garfish have lung-like organs which breathe air. This option allows them to
lie in dry bayous for days and wait for water levels to rise, or gulp air on the
surface of low-oxygen ponds." I was an encyclopedia of fascinating gar-facts. "The roe of garfish is toxic to humans. Indians once made arrowheads from their
scales. There's a saying in the Carolinas which goes 'as common as gar-broth.'"
"What do they eat?" Kevin asked, blowing out a plume of smoke. "Nutria rats," I told him, "ducks, bugs, herons, fish. Reportedly, some have
even eaten soap. Not to mention giant turkeys, small dogs, and decoys." "What about humans?" "There's never been a verified account," I answered, totally prepared for this
question, "but there have been reports of gar maulings. The most famous account
is from 1932, in Mandeville, Louisiana, at the height of American gar-paranoia.
A certain Dr. Paine reported that he had patched up a nine-year-old girl who'd
been sitting on the edge of Lake Pontchartrain dangling her feet in the water.
Apparently, her toes must've looked like teeny weenies, because the next thing
she knew a seven-foot gar was dragging her in. She screamed and her thirteen-year-old
brother ran to the rescue. He pulled her away and her leg was just a bloody stump."
Suddenly, we were at the spot, ready to git ourselves a garfish. The water,
however, was down, leaving yesterday's eggs exposed to the sun, and the gar out
deeper, rippling on the surface. So I snuck out with my net, just in time to see
a gartail rise. It slapped the water and they all shot off. A fat lotta good all that book-learning did me! We ended up chasing a bunch of retarded ducks on the shore, trying to get them
with my special gar-net. They waddled and quacked while we stumbled after. Kevin
went for a duck and conked it on the head, causing us both to flush with guilt.
It's a pathetic sight when grown men fail to git a garfish. *** Colonel J.G. Burr of Texas was the Adolph Hitler of garfish. He was the Director
of Research of the Game Fish and Oyster Commission in Austin in the 30s, where
he tried his damnedest to destroy gar through electrocution. He ended up sending
thousands to the Chair. Col. Burr's preferred method was stringing a power line across the bottom of
a body of water, then dragging buoys across the surface connected to ground wires.
He'd send 400 volts through the power line, and all fish within range would float
to the surface either knocked out or dead. This shocking behavior on the part of the Colonel was encouraged by various
bureaus of research and conservation which publicly called for inventors "to devise
methods for Gar control, since it is clear that this species is a real menace
to many forms of fish and other wild life." Col. Burr went on to construct a special boat meant for the massacre of gars:
The Electrical Gar Destroyer. It was an 8 x 16 foot "barge" rigged with a 200-volt
generator and an electric net that zapped the fish then scooped them up. There
was a bright red floodlight hooked up to the bow to blind the garfish if they
weren't quite dead, and lessen their struggle. The environmentally minded Colonel
did this (so we're told) to protect goslings in a neighborhood pond. On the maiden voyage of the Electrical Gar Destroyer, the gar-maddened Colonel
succeeded in wiping out 75 alligator gar and 1000 turtles. After that, he went
up and down bayous and canals ridding Texas of garfish (and whatever else happened
to be there), even making excursions into saltwater to get the gar which had fled
the threat of his all mighty net. Mr. J.G. McGee of New Mexico then took a hint from the Colonel and rigged up
something similar in the Pecos River in Roswell. He went to dams where gar had
gathered and shocked them all to death. Others followed suit. Garfish floated
belly up across the desert Southwest. Meanwhile, Col. Burr was compiling all sorts of data on killing gar at various
depths with various voltages in different degrees of salinity during different
months of the summer. He exterminated millions, making a great dent in the American
garfish population. Following a massive gar-kill in Lake Caddo, this is what the great sportsman
Col. Burr had to say: "I saw one immense Gar, which seemed to be 7 feet long,
spring entirely out of the water 30 feet away. His jump was at an angle of 45
degrees and I am sure he felt the current. This jumping of the Gars, whether they
went into the net or not, produced a thrill which can not be found in any other
kind of fishing." *** Contrary to claims that garflesh ain't fit for a dog, there doesn't seem to
be a shortage of garmeat being sold in the South. I've seen steaks and filets
at rinky-dink stores and gas stations all over the state. And as piles of skinned
gar in the swamps attest, there is a market for garfish. In Fishing Gear Online, there's an article entitled "Gar in the Pan."
The author, Keith Sutton, writes: "Actually, gars are rather tasty, a fact that
becomes obvious when you learn of the hundreds of thousands of pounds of gar meat
being sold each year at Mom-and-Pop fish markets throughout the country. On a
recent visit to a south Arkansas fish market, I watched as the proprietor sold
hundreds of pounds of gar meat in three hours, at $3 a pound. Catfish fillets,
selling for $2.50 per pound, were hardly touched by the customers
'I can't
get enough gars to meet the demand," the proprietor told me. 'Once folks try it
and find out how good it really is, they come back wanting more. The fish are
difficult to dress, but the meat cooks up white and flaky, and tastes as good
as any fish you ever put in your mouth.'" Sutton goes on to tell us how he ate a freshly cut steak from a 190-pound gar,
and how he was impressed it. He compares the taste to crappie, before offering
up this poem: My pan at home it has been greased Whether the second to the last word in the poem is missing an "f," I can't
say. But I can say what follows in the articlestep by step instructions
on how to prepare garfish: First, cut off the head and tail with an axe, leaving a big long tube of food.
Secondly, use tin snips to split the bony hide open, right down the belly. Thirdly,
peel the meat back from the armor using gloves to protect your fingers. After
that, filet the meat along the backbone, then cut the loins into smaller pieces.
Sutton goes on to list a multitude of recipes, including gar-stew, gar-cakes,
stir-fried gar, gar boulettes and garfish Mississippi. So far, this article is
the best resource I've found on how to cook gar. It's available on-line at www.outdoorsite.net/fishing/article_page.cfm?objectid=166. *** So I took off for the Gaspergou Bayou Oil and Gas Fields, where it's said
that the largest old gar in the state still livesome of them close to a
century old. I was armed with a canoe full of milkjugs with guitar strings strung
to treble hooks meant for Puget Sound lingcod, a bucket of turkey necks, two gas
cans full of liquified chum, some cans of dogfood, and my father's 9mm Luger captured
off a Nazi soldier. I also had one bearded Bulgarian with me, Plamen Arnoudov. Last time I took
him fishing, he hooked an endangered paddlefish and conked it on the head with
a hammer. We ate paddlefish for days, which of course is illegal. But then again, so is fishing without a license. Which we intended to doas
almost every single Cajun does. And nobody tells Cajuns not to eat what they catchthat's
what they've been doing since the 1700s, hunting and trapping and living off the
land. So why should we be any different? Just because their ancestors got abducted
from Canada and dumped in a swamp, and Longfellow wrote a poem about some treedoes
that give them more right to fish here than us? I don't think so. It didn't really matter, though, since the place we were going was posted "OFF
LIMITS" to everyone. Gaspergou Bayou is owned by Texaco, who ran a big old petrochemical
plant out on a platform until just a few years ago when the state shut them down.
Supposedly, they'd been dumping something out there that couldn't be mentioned
in the papers. Now, however, the platform is abandoned, and this is where the
big ones lurk. So we snuck through the cypress forest. For miles and miles, great horned owls
stared down at us from blasted old growth while egrets and ibises nested all around.
There were alligators lying on logs and copperheads winding through the duckweed.
Eventually, we got to the platform, where there were vultures perched on giant
pipes overgrown with ivies. From a hundred yards away, we could see the surface rippling. So we stayed
where we were and baited up our floats. The wind was with us, blowing toward the
platform. Our bait started moving across the swamp. Soon, twenty jugs were making
their way toward the gar-swirls, each of them dangling a big hunk of meat. Then
we broke out the chum. I'd bought a case of slicker (which is freshwater mullet) at a place called
Breaux's in Henderson. One box, one dollar. Then I ground them up in the food-processor
until it became an oily purée, which I put outside for three days in the sun.
When the neighbors started complaining about the stench, that's when I poured
it into a couple empty gas cans. So Plamen and I, we put on our spigots and poured the soup into the swamp.
A reeking red puddle followed the jugs, and that's when I saw a long armored back
rise from the water, then disappear just as quickly. I couldn't believe the size
of itit was half the size of my canoe. The sun, I figured, was making me
hallucinate. After that, we pounded holes in the Alpo cans, making bait-bombs. We then hurled
these into the garfield, where they began to release dogfoody fluids, getting
the gar all excited. We waited. Suddenly a milkjug went under, then reappeared ten feet later. Then
another went down. Then another. The garfish were going nuts over there. We waited
until all twenty were bobbing and bopping around. Then we paddled over. The first one we pulled up had a five-foot gar hooked on it. It started splashing
around in a frenzy. There was no way we were gonna get it in the boat without
tipping over, so I leveled the Luger between its eyes and blasted a hole through
its head. It convulsed, thrashed, smacked into the hull. And then we saw something incredible. Its pals began attacking it, swarming
it, right beneath my canoe. We could see garfish eight feet long, sometimes longer.
They were ripping their fallen comrade apart, and slapping at the surface, which
was roiling red with blood. We gripped the canoe and tried to hold on. The buzzards above were laughing
at us, mocking us, screeching like the damned. A couple times, the boat almost
flippedand we knew what would happen if we went into the drink. But then
the ruckus ceased. Turning toward the platform, we saw nineteen milkjugs on the run. Something
had spooked them. That's when we heard a tremendous splash. We swiveled to see
a gar so huge that I'd lose all credibility as a garfish aficionado if I tried
to describe the size of it. I will only say that some of those books weren't so
far off, and that its entire chromy backside was cutting across the swamp, coming
our way. The next thing we knew, we were kicking up a rooster tail, making for the cypress
trees. And as we paddled like lunatics, I no longer felt that urge anymoreto
git myself a garfish. Printed in the Spring/Summer 2002 issue of CLR |
Mark Spitzer is the Assistant Editor of Exquisite Corpse (www.corpse.org), and has published books like Chum (Zoland Books), Bottom Feeder (Creative Arts), and The Collected Poems of Georges Bataille (Dufour Editions). He is still trying to git himself a garfish. You can find Mark
Spitzer on the web at: |
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Published by Clackamas Literary Review, in print and on the web at clackamasliteraryreview.com, www.clackamas.cc.or.us/clr, and webdelsol.com/CLR Copyright © 2001-2002, Clackamas Community College |